I think I'm in love with Bali- the people, the culture, the environment. It is amazing how intentional and simple life is here. Simple is the word I choose to use not because there is little to do or consider, but rather because what is important, is very simply recognized. Everything on this Island seems to revolve around the Hindu religion. Ok- there are small Muslim and Christian populations here, but at least 80% of the population is Balinese Hindu. What makes it Balinese is that they believe there is only one god (an idea they had to adopt when being threatened by Muslim rulers who would only allow them to keep their religion if they "got rid" of their polytheism). So Rama, Vishnu, Shiva, etc. are not individual gods, but manifestations of the one god. Anyway- life pretty much revolves around making offerings to god. All day, everyday. I've already been here for the blessing for metals (which includes automobiles). They bless their money, clothing, food, things that i've purchased from them, etc. etc.etc. It seems their main concern is working to make enough money to refurbish their temples.Both for the community and for their family temples. I could go in to so much more detail, but I want to tell you about my amazing experience on Gunung Agung.
Gunung Agung is the highest and most holy mountain (and place) in Bali. Its highest summit reaches 3100 meters and making the upward trek is very difficult. Of course, I didn't really know this until already hiking...
Myself and Lisa, the woman i met at the cafe, arranged for a guide to hike the volcano. The plan was to meet the guide in Bekasih at 11pm and trek so that we'd see the sunrise on the summit. Well, already our trek was not what we expected. Our car from Ubud to Bekasih stalled about twenty minutes outside Ubud. And although the driver said we could push off the trek for the next day we decided we'd rather stick to our plan. The driver called his friend, traded cars, and got us to Bekasih around 11:30. Lisa and I met our guide, Putu, and began walking. We reached a small temple that is being repaired and made a praryer for a safe journey and also for permission to trek. A boy named Sabr joined us because he was bringing water up to a group that was camped out on the mountain.
Here is where the story gets really interesting. In December, 3 students from the University in Jakarta, Java decided to do teh Agung trek. As usual, they started out close to midnight hoping to reach the summit in the morning. The weather was awful and the police and guides said they should not go. But they did anyway. Four days after they left, the University called into Bali and said the students had not returned. Since then, for 6 months, there has been a search team on teh mountain looking for the bodies. One woman was found on the side of the cliff of the 2nd summit. The other man and woman still have not been found. The Balinese and Javanese are still looking for the bodies for two reasons. For the Balinese, they must clear the mountain of the bodies because they do not want any evil spirits remaining there. After the bodies are found they will begin a cleansing ceremony. For teh Javanese its a matter of returning the bodies to their families (they are Muslim and wish to bury their dead, teh Balinese have elaborate cremation ceremonies).
So, Putu, Sabr, Lisa and myself continued trekking on. It usually takes 6 hours to reach the top. By the fourth hour I was exhausted. It was 4 am, cold, rainy and the hike is incredibly hard! Don't get me wrong, I loved it- pulling myself up on roots and vines, trying to keep to the path with teh knowledge that to slip, meant to fall down the side of the mountain. Keep in mind we were doing this in the dark with headlamps. We got to the area where the search team was camping and Putu suggested we wait there till the morning. There was a fire, we had coffee and noodles, and watched the sunrise through the hazy mountain side. The search team rotates on a weekly basis. It is lead by local Balinese, usually 3, and then about 10 Javanese students are there at a time. The students woke up from under the one tarp, and greeted us with a loud Bule Bule! White Tourists! We got to know them well and asked them all sorts of questions. Putu asked if Lisa and I would like to get to the summit. Of course we did. But he suggested that we stay another night on the mountain in the simple camp. We though we could not pass up the opportunity so ended up hiking to the summit, took another 4 hours, and then met up with everyone else again. The night was spent either in a freezing uncomfortable supine position (they gave us some mat space under the tarp and a sleeping bag to share) or sitting cross-legged in front of the fire. Being awake and warm was preferable to being "asleep" and cold. So I stayed up most of the night. The second morning we headed back down the mountain- made it in two hours.
This has been one of the most incredible experiences of my life. There was no one else on that mountain except for us. no other trekkers, no other locals. We saw how the people of besakih live off of the land and how the students of jakarta have no lack of international phones and satellite radios. It was amazing! the view at teh summit allowed us to see as far as the island of Lombok. we were above the clouds. We were looking down into teh crater of a volcano. It was incredible. Putu, our guide, is also one of the most generous people I have ever met. I already miss him dearly. At the bottom of the mountain he invited us to his house to shower and eat. He has very little and was willing to share with us. He attached a tube to the faucet in teh bathroom to make a "western shower" so we would not have to use the basin and cup method. No hot water. He has a beautiful wife named Komang and an adorable daughter named Sri. I hope to keep in touch with them for a very long time. The experience is one I will never forget.
I have just arrived in Lovina and plan on spending the next two days roasting at the beach and watching dolphins. The drive here was beautiful. The north of the country before teh coast is full of enormous hills ciovered in rice paddies. There are monkeys lining the roads!!!
Alright- enough of this computer screen, I'm heading outside!!!
much love
Rebecca
Gunung Agung is the highest and most holy mountain (and place) in Bali. Its highest summit reaches 3100 meters and making the upward trek is very difficult. Of course, I didn't really know this until already hiking...
Myself and Lisa, the woman i met at the cafe, arranged for a guide to hike the volcano. The plan was to meet the guide in Bekasih at 11pm and trek so that we'd see the sunrise on the summit. Well, already our trek was not what we expected. Our car from Ubud to Bekasih stalled about twenty minutes outside Ubud. And although the driver said we could push off the trek for the next day we decided we'd rather stick to our plan. The driver called his friend, traded cars, and got us to Bekasih around 11:30. Lisa and I met our guide, Putu, and began walking. We reached a small temple that is being repaired and made a praryer for a safe journey and also for permission to trek. A boy named Sabr joined us because he was bringing water up to a group that was camped out on the mountain.
Here is where the story gets really interesting. In December, 3 students from the University in Jakarta, Java decided to do teh Agung trek. As usual, they started out close to midnight hoping to reach the summit in the morning. The weather was awful and the police and guides said they should not go. But they did anyway. Four days after they left, the University called into Bali and said the students had not returned. Since then, for 6 months, there has been a search team on teh mountain looking for the bodies. One woman was found on the side of the cliff of the 2nd summit. The other man and woman still have not been found. The Balinese and Javanese are still looking for the bodies for two reasons. For the Balinese, they must clear the mountain of the bodies because they do not want any evil spirits remaining there. After the bodies are found they will begin a cleansing ceremony. For teh Javanese its a matter of returning the bodies to their families (they are Muslim and wish to bury their dead, teh Balinese have elaborate cremation ceremonies).
So, Putu, Sabr, Lisa and myself continued trekking on. It usually takes 6 hours to reach the top. By the fourth hour I was exhausted. It was 4 am, cold, rainy and the hike is incredibly hard! Don't get me wrong, I loved it- pulling myself up on roots and vines, trying to keep to the path with teh knowledge that to slip, meant to fall down the side of the mountain. Keep in mind we were doing this in the dark with headlamps. We got to the area where the search team was camping and Putu suggested we wait there till the morning. There was a fire, we had coffee and noodles, and watched the sunrise through the hazy mountain side. The search team rotates on a weekly basis. It is lead by local Balinese, usually 3, and then about 10 Javanese students are there at a time. The students woke up from under the one tarp, and greeted us with a loud Bule Bule! White Tourists! We got to know them well and asked them all sorts of questions. Putu asked if Lisa and I would like to get to the summit. Of course we did. But he suggested that we stay another night on the mountain in the simple camp. We though we could not pass up the opportunity so ended up hiking to the summit, took another 4 hours, and then met up with everyone else again. The night was spent either in a freezing uncomfortable supine position (they gave us some mat space under the tarp and a sleeping bag to share) or sitting cross-legged in front of the fire. Being awake and warm was preferable to being "asleep" and cold. So I stayed up most of the night. The second morning we headed back down the mountain- made it in two hours.
This has been one of the most incredible experiences of my life. There was no one else on that mountain except for us. no other trekkers, no other locals. We saw how the people of besakih live off of the land and how the students of jakarta have no lack of international phones and satellite radios. It was amazing! the view at teh summit allowed us to see as far as the island of Lombok. we were above the clouds. We were looking down into teh crater of a volcano. It was incredible. Putu, our guide, is also one of the most generous people I have ever met. I already miss him dearly. At the bottom of the mountain he invited us to his house to shower and eat. He has very little and was willing to share with us. He attached a tube to the faucet in teh bathroom to make a "western shower" so we would not have to use the basin and cup method. No hot water. He has a beautiful wife named Komang and an adorable daughter named Sri. I hope to keep in touch with them for a very long time. The experience is one I will never forget.
I have just arrived in Lovina and plan on spending the next two days roasting at the beach and watching dolphins. The drive here was beautiful. The north of the country before teh coast is full of enormous hills ciovered in rice paddies. There are monkeys lining the roads!!!
Alright- enough of this computer screen, I'm heading outside!!!
much love
Rebecca
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1 comment:
Your trip sounds amazing! I can't imagine what it's like- it sounds like you're experiencing something that is completely intangible here.
Safe and happy travels!
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